Comments on: What Kind Of Glue Holds Your Guitar Together?

By: Troels Schmidt

Troels Schmidt — Fri, 07 Oct 2011 07:31:50 +0000

The main difference between hot hide glue and ALL other types of glue is, that hot hide glue does NOT penetrate the wood surface. It bonds to the wood molecules in a complicated electro chemical way right on the surface – whereas other glues penetrates the wood pores. Hot hide glue is the only glue too that bonds to itself right away – for the same reason.

Funnily – but not surprisingly – I read (yesterday actually) an article written by a Gibson “glue expert” that stated that hot hide glue better than other glues penetrates the wood – which it doesn’t at all!!

By: Troels Schmidt

Troels Schmidt — Wed, 05 Oct 2011 11:34:39 +0000

Gibson ES type guitars, Gretsches and other with laminated top, sides and backs are glued/heat pressed with phenol formaldehyde – which for that reason must be said to be a common and accepted glue for guitars.

By: Han

Han — Fri, 30 Sep 2011 05:57:32 +0000

can i find that glue in OMAN or Dubai?

By: Daniel R. Lehrman

Daniel R. Lehrman — Fri, 09 Sep 2011 14:04:49 +0000

You can use any glue you prefer. The bone nut makes more difference than the glue.

By: Paul Holst

Paul Holst — Thu, 08 Sep 2011 11:22:28 +0000

Tend to disagree on which glue should be used for guitars considering I don’t intend to ever drop/break it, hopefully! I personally use local product Selleys 308 which is a melamine fortified urea formaldehyde glue. Why do I use this? So the guitar will have better resonance, the last one I rebuilt rings out for many seconds after strumming, also replacing “plastic” bridge and nut with Bone helps. I build a guitar to achieve better acoustics, not so much bang crash Pete Townsend proof

By: Daniel R. Lehrman

Daniel R. Lehrman — Mon, 01 Aug 2011 21:29:15 +0000

Use tightbond. I don’t think any major manufacturers use anything but tightbond. Some of the Chinese guitars use epoxy. That is to hard. tight bond can be separated for repairs.
Let me know,
Danny

By: Will Redfearn

Will Redfearn — Mon, 01 Aug 2011 00:10:02 +0000

hi there nice article.. some pretty cool stuff
so i know you mentioned the 2 different types of glue that you would recommend, however it seems that you only think these are suitable for glueing on a fretboard, right? i was wondering what glue is used in the actualy body in a guitar?
because, i read that to stop a guitar warping so much, they are usually manufactured in 2 pieces, which are glued toegether.
i am about to embark on a mission to build my own guitar, and, being the low life cheap skate i am, thought it would be a better idea to order 2 unglued pieces of wood for cheaper, rather than pay for the same amount of wood but glued and more expensive..
you seem to understand what you’re talking about, so.. do you think it’s a good idea to try and glue 2 pieces together myself? (i am completely inexperienced, however would enjoy the challenge, if it’s not too much of a stupid idea) And secondly, if so, what type of glue is suitable to keep the pieces together, and to retain the tonal characteristics of the wood as much as possible..?? Your help is much appreciated
Will

By: Benn

Benn — Thu, 05 May 2011 21:04:18 +0000

lsw wrote:

>>Surely you meant Titebond Liquid Hide Glue and not the
>>more common Titebond woodworking glue?

No, he meant the standard ‘red label’ Titebond which most instrument builders (who don’t use hot hide glue) use these days, it is an AR (aliphatic resin) glue and can also be released with heat and steam. The Titebond Liquid Hide Glue (or any liquid hide glue) is not recommended for instrument building because it contains urea to keep it liquid at room temperature – this kind of glue can creep on parts that are loaded even without heat or moisture, it is not the same as hot hide glue.

If you are really keen to learn about glue, check out this link, extensive testing:

Regards,
Benn

By: lsw

lsw — Sat, 20 Nov 2010 22:50:15 +0000

Surely you meant Titebond Liquid Hide Glue and not the more common Titebond woodworking glue? The liquid hide glue has the same properties as classic hide glue, and joints can be separated with heat and reassembled. True hide glue, either liquid or granule, is available from a view manufacturers, but there are dozens of manufacturers making PVA glue similar to the Titebond woodworking glue you picture.

By: marlom ragasajo

marlom ragasajo — Fri, 29 Oct 2010 02:02:42 +0000

i have a fender strat deluxe 2001. i woul like to change the truss rod because its not working anymore.the fretboard was abused by the previous owner and like to customize it with ebony material.

anybody know of what type of adhesive/glue that this kind of guitar being use?
is ebony ccompatible with this type of guitar?

By: Justin

Justin — Sat, 16 Oct 2010 05:53:00 +0000

Is there a way to tell Titebond from regular white/yellow carpenters glue by smell alone?

By: robert

robert — Sat, 20 Feb 2010 21:29:38 +0000

..interesting article.Thanks.
How about resonance of the glue?

Robert

By: Hobart

Hobart — Fri, 29 May 2009 22:58:08 +0000

What you have correctly shown is now called Titebond I, there is now also a Titebond II. Those who know say for instruments stick with Titebond I, so to speak, though of course, hide glue is still da bomb.

By: Daniel Lehrman

Daniel Lehrman — Sat, 16 May 2009 20:11:15 +0000

Bob,
Thanks for your input.
Hide glues are the original glues. Luthiers have used it forever. However, I’m not so sure if even Martin guitars are glued with hide glue. Most of the luthiers I know use Titebond unless they are restoring an instrument for it’s value.
One thing about hide glues, they start to soften up at about 140 degrees. Leave it in a hot car for a few hours and you will literally come back to a bunch of melted apart pieces. I have seen an old antique violin that was left in the car and it came apart.
When you disassemble a glued part of a guitar you have to heat it to about 170 degrees to soften the glue and gently peel the pieces apart.
I use Titebond unless it already came with hide glue or it is requested.

Danny

By: Bob Knouse

Bob Knouse — Sat, 16 May 2009 17:25:35 +0000

Squara,
No flaming but I’m repairing the neck on my SG. I read up on it, called and talked to professionals who make and repair guitars. There are a lot of ‘experts’ on glues and adhesives. I wanted knowledge from experienced guitar repair and construction pros. Most were really cool to talk a little shop with me. I went with the recommendation of several well known instrument Luthiers. Hide glue is what all the best Luthiers use. Actually all good wood instrument builders use it. It’ll last hundreds of years. The Egyptians used it. What do you think makes real Amish furniture so strong? Why antique furniture holds together so long. Although it’s ‘not recommended for human comsumption’, you can literally eat it. It’s natural and non-toxic. Holds way better than Elmers. With additives you can even make it waterproof.
Funny though, I called around and found quite a few local repair guys here in York PA use carpenters glue or other cheap glues or epoxy’s. Not a bad adhesives, but I wouldn’t gig without a spare guitar if it’s used to repair mine. If I ever want my guitars repaired by someone else I know the right question to ask: “What kind of glue do you use”?